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My second time climbing Njupeskär, Sweden

Njupeskär is always a climb that is close to my heart. Seeing this waterfall in her frozen shape planted the seed that eventually grew into a fully
grown passion for ice climbing. She did not form very well the prevoius season but this season she was in very good condition indeed, so Edvin and
I headed up to climb her. Instead of switching leads during the climb we decided on climbing twice, each time one of us would do all the leading.
This was a good plan as we could take what ever lines we wanted. Karl-Johan and Eva had already started on the same line as Edvin wanted to take so
I started as the line I wanted was to the left of them. I did the entire waterfall from start to topout in three pitches, but I must confess that I was
not entirely satisfied with that. On Sunday it was too windy so we headed for Trängslet instead (next gallery). However, the next weekend I came
back to Njupeskär with Sylvia and Rufus and lead the entire waterfall in two straight pitches. A very satisfying end to a fantastic season of ice!


Back to Njupeskär... The ice that influenced me to start ice climbing some years ago.

Njupeskär might not be the longest or hardest ice in Sweden, but I'd say it's the crown jewel of them all.

On the first climb I did the leading and Edvin followed.

Karl-Johan climbing a line just to the right.

Eva belaying Karl-Johan.

Edvin belaying me. Thanks Eva for the photo.

A happy Edvin seconding.

The ice was a bit steeper this time than it was when I climbed here two years ago.

But the condition it was much better.

Another photo taken by Eva.

At the top...

And in the sun again.

Something to eat and drink...

And then back at it.

This time Edvin was going to lead.

He picked the line to the right of mine.

Which was slightly harder.

But the ice was pretty bad higher up so he headed left.

The trusted Kiwi shopping bag. Great for stashing the ropes in on hanging belays.

At the belay.

Me seconding.

To climb Njupeskär in two straight pitches you have to make them rather long.

Which is fairly tiring...

But it was a little less tiring using Nomic axes instead of my old Quarks.

I've really come to like the Nomics. Gotta get me pair... Thanks Jocke for lending yours to me :)

The last bit of steap ice.

Then it was basically steep walking in snow.

Walking the Machine back to the car. Sometimes you have to put a leash on the Machine and weigh it down a bit or it will just storm away.

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