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My third ice climbing trip to Rjukan, Norway

Home again.. This time with Edvin. It was five years ago (March 2006) I was here and did my first leads on ice nad have only been back for a couple
of long weekends since. Now Edvin and I had a full week to our disposal. Our original plan was to go to Romsdal and climb some of the very long ice
climbs but the conditions there were rather bad so we headed to Rjukan instead and struck gold. We had perfect conditions all week and climbed
for seven straight days. We where both fairly beat up on the seventh day and after that we had to give it up. I'm usually fairly good at taking rest
days but it was hard to stop considering the rythem and momentum we had, all of the ice to climb and the perfect weather conditions to do it in.


We started out easy on a WI5. Edvin on the second pitch.

It was not a WI5 in it's current condition. Perhaps a WI3+ or WI4.

Then we did Nye Vemorkfossen, the Bakvein variant...

Because I really liked the line. Edvin seconding after me.

Edvin took the last pitch.

Two teams on Lettvann. They where not very fast. After taking this photo we rapped off Nye Vemorkfossen and climbed it. We passed one team and caught up with the other at the top.

On our third day out we did Fabriksfossen. Mostly WI2 climbing with a few WI3 parts. Edvin on the first pitch.

Edvin seconding the second pitch.

Me taking on the fourth or something pitch.

Edvin seconding. The reason why it's called 'The factory fall' should be fairly obvious.

Edvin on the last pitch... A pleasant outing.

We had our eyes on the one to the right... The Gausta Marathon, about 800 meters, but we never did it.

We went for the shorter but harder stuff, now on Sabotörsfossen. Me on the first pitch.

Edvin on the extreamly fun second pitch.

It was a bit hacked up, but still very nice climbing.

The first screw was fairly solid though.

Me seconding the second pitch.

I took the third pitch.

It was also a very nice pitch, well, at least the variant I chose.

There was perhaps an easier line...

But the ice looked better procteded on this line.

Edvin following the last pitch.

Other climbers across the gorge.

Then we headed up the gorge to look. Blindtarmen was occupied...

Juvsøjlen was not in condition...

So we headed up Trappfoss.

We never bothered roping up for the first pitch...

It was not really ice climbing...

Just a steep snow gully...

The climbers on Blindtarmen making their way up.

Edvin on the second pitch of Trappfoss.

Edvin seconding the third pitch.

A very nice pitch with lots of air under our feet.

But I had to stretch the rope a bit to reach the top.

Me rapping off.

Rapping off the first pitch.

Other climbers on Sabotörsfossen.

We headed back the next day to do Blindtarmen.

Edvin coming up to the first belay...

Which was in a very nice comfortable little cave. The best belay of the trip :)

Edvin taking on the longer and steeper second pitch.

The ice was good though.

This photo of us on Blindtarmen was taken by two friendly German climbers Nils Grube and Peter Bayer.

They where on Trappfoss while we did Blindtarmen. This is Edvin leading the second pitch.

And me seconding. It's really nice to have photos taken of you from a distance and then have them mailed to you. So thanks to Nils and Peter!

Me following the second pitch.

Coming up to the belay.

I took some photos of Nils and Peter while they where on Trappfoss.

The third pitch was a bit loose... I knocked this peice of rock down and it landed just inches from Edvin.

Edvin coming up the third and final pitch. It was a bit mixed with little ice, some loose rock and a lot of snow.

Nils and Peter topping out. They did say the liked these photos, which is good because we liked the photos they took of us.

Edvin in the nice little cave on the way back down from Blindtarmen.

Then back to Sabortörsfossen. This time we switched lead pitches. This is Edvin seconding the second pitch.

I would say this was the single must fun pitch of the week.

Edvin taking a different line than me on the last pitch.

On our fifth day we headed up to the upper upper gorge to do this one: Rjukanfossen...

And this one too: Verldens ende (The end of the world).

Lipton was not in condition... Which I was glad of because I don't know what Edvin would have done if it was :)

I linked the first and second pitch.

Edvin had to simulclimb after me for a few meters though.

Me at the belay with Edvin's warm jacket.

Edvin on the third pitch.

Me belaying Edvin.

Then on to Verldens ende WI5. This is the slightly overhanging first pitch which Edvin lead.

It was a tough job finding good ice for the screws in that overhang.

Edvin on the third and final pitch.

On very fat ice.

Edvin soloing a W2... Ice grades are rated with WI (waterfall ice)... This is just W (wood) :)

The next day we did Tungt Vatten (Heavy water) WI4.

A two pitch climb which we did twice so we could switch leads.

This is me taking the gully variation to the right.

A very nice line on thin ice that ended so I had to do a bit of rock climbing and then bushwhacking to get to the top.

Then we went back to climb Nye Vemorkfoss again, but took the steeper original line to the right.

We both wanted to lead the steep pitch so we both did. I started out.

Then rapped off and cleaned it so Edvin could lead it.

His line was harder, but not as nice :)

On our last day we headed to the Kong Winter area. Edvin leading, and some Spanish climbers toproping in the background.

We were pretty beat up after a straight week of climbing so it took us a while to get up.

But Edvin just had to have a crack at a mixed line... He did not get far though, seven days of ice climbing without a rest day prooved to be to much, even for Machine :)

And that concluded our week at Rjukan... Until next time...

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