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My third climbing trip to Costa Blanca, Spain

In October 2010 I went to the Costa Blanca region again, this time with Sylvia. We had really good weather and managed to pick great places to climb
for all days except one. On that day we climbed Via Gene, which according to the guide book was two star route with a strong natural line. Well, nothing
about the description was right and due to a very big and extreamly loose flake twenty meters directly above Sylvia belaying I would consider this the
most dangerouse rock climb I've ever done. If you go to Costa Blanca, avoid this route. Other than that we did Espolon Central Direct in nine pitches.
This was the third time on that route for me and I'm still not tired of it. I didn't beat my record of 4:45 as this time it took about 5:10, but it's
still a pretty good time. My favourite sport route was Tai Chi (6c) at Olta just above Calpe. A fantastic route, much better than the neighbouring Tufa
Groove (6b+) which was very strenuous and had a few very old and rustly bolts. Well, this was probably my last trip to this region, it's time to move on.
There are so many places I want to go to and so little time to go to them all, so I'm guessing I will not come back... But who knows? Never say never...


The first route we did was the nice arete of Espolon Central Direct. The third time for me.

Sylvia on the fourth pitch.

The first three pitches are ok, but the fun starts on the fourth.

Sylvia belaying me on pitch five.

Sylvia on the sixth pitch.

It's an easy climb, but still rather long.

Three climbers on a neighbouring route.

Sylvia on pitch seven.

Probably the best pitch of the route.

The climbing is easy but you get lots of airy exposure.

Sylvia on pitch eight.

Sylvia coming up after me on the ninth and final pitch.

Getting down first involves a traverse along the mountain side with a wire cable as protection.

On our way down some clouds came up to say hi.

Very scenice with the clouds.

There is something about being above the clouds that I really like.

It got rather misty.

So we stopped and took a few photos.

The clouds around us came and went...

...making the hike down beautifull.

On our third day we went to Olta, which is above Calpe.

There was a bunch of easier bolted climbs there.

This is an English climber in a rare (for the region) chimney climb.

Sylvia on another of the 5 or 5+ bolted climbs.

Sylvia rapping of "Tai Chi". This was my absolout favourite climb of the week.

Me on one of the middle pitches of Via Gene.

This route sounded good in the guide book, but it was very dangerous.

A lot of loose rock and an inconsistant route description kept us on our toes.

I dont look happy because I wasn't. I do not recommend this route at all, no matter what the guide book says.

Night shot of Benidorm.

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