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Multipitch climbing in Paklenica, Croatia

In April Stefan arranged a week long trip to Paklenica in Croatia. Besides myself, Sylvia and Fredrik came along which was great because that
made us even pairs. We got lucky with the weather too, the report looked rather gloomy but after only one rainy day we had perfect conditions.




We stayed a couple of kilometers outside of the park entrance.

The first few days we hiked in, then we started hitch hiking.

Sylvia on 'Sjeverno Rebro' 4b or something. The first route Sylvia and I did at Paklenica.

Me seconding the fourth pitch. It's a nice easy climb, but fairly crowded.

Sylvia on the fifth pitch.

Sylvia leading the sixth pitch.

Sylvia comming up to the top of the route.

On our way down we stopped to do 'Bijela Rampa', a three pitch grade 3 climb, as we had time to spare.

It was very easy but the rock was nice.

Sylvia on the third pitch.

Other climbers on 'Bijela Rampa'. A very nice easy climb. The only climb we did there that did not have a single bolt anywhere on the route.

While Sylvia and I were on the two easy climbs, Stefan and Fredrik started up something a little harder.

They climbed a route called 'Karabore' 5b. It follows the groove up Anica Stup.

Stefan leading 'Karabore'.

Stefan rappelling down from Anica Stup.

Two days later we did the same climb.

Nice groove climbing with a crux or two.

Time to go down again...

and then up again by another route. This time on 'Danaja' 5b. A very enjoyable climb.

And after that we climbed the abseil gully. This is Sylvia on the second pitch.

While we were at Anica Stup, Stefan and Fredrik were at... somewhere...

I don't remeber the name of the place...

or the climb that they did.

Now Sylvia and I wanted to do something longer, so we decided to do this route.

It's about 350 meters long and starts in the left groove, and then traverses over to the right groove.

Me on the first pitch.

Sylvia on the third pitch.

Sylvia lead the next two pitches.

The route was a little vegetated here and there, but nice anyway.

Sylvia on the fifth pitch (I think).

Me getting close to the start of the chimney crux pitch.

A short pitch before the crux.

A true bumshot of me just after the tight chimney part. I had to take my pack off to do it.

Sylvia just comming out of the tight chimney.

Sylvia leading the next pitch.

Over on the top of Anica Stup Fredrik saw us and took a photo. I'm staning just below the center of the photo, Sylvia is a little harder to spot about twenty meters above.

I took a photo of Fredrik lying on top, but at the time I didn't know it was him.

Fredrik and Stefan on top of Anica Stup.

I'm gettig ready to continue after Sylvia.

Me on one of the upper pitches.

Sylvia seconding.

Me on the last pitch.

Sylvia comming up over the last steep part.

Now it's just the long walk back down again...

A nice view though.

Stefan and Fredrik were almost hit by falling rocks.

Stefan and Fredrik were the ones doing the hard stuff...

While Sylvia and I took a rest day on a very easy climb right next to the road.

Nice, easy and airy climbing along an arete.

A pleasant rest day outing.

Other climbers on 'Nosorog' after we came down. They are visible on the upper parts.

Stefan and Fredrik went to do a harder multipitch climb.

Fredrik injured his shoulder so bad on this climb that he later needed surgery.

Nice view straight down.

They said it was a hard route.

But I can imagen it was really hard for Fredrik. His shoulder was injured on the first pitch, but he still finished the climb.

Stefan enjoying a nice footbath after Diagonalka.

Fredrik took some really nice photos.

Me on one of the few single pitch sport climbs I did.

Another nice photo from Fredrik. Stefan on the coast of Starigrad.

The next day Sylvia and I went for another long route. This time the ultra classic Mosoraski, a 350 meter 5c climb.

This gigantic karabiner marks the start of the route.

Sylvia on one of the first pitches.

A climber, on the neighboring route Velebitaski, is visible at the bottem of the crack that devides the enormous flake from the wall. If I go back to Paklenica, this route is on the menu!

Sylvia leading one of the middle pitches.

Sylia following the next pitch.

The middle part of the climb was nice and airy.

Sylvia on the traverse that leads up to the harder parts of the climb.

I think it was a little bit of a shame this route had so much bolts when protection could be easily used in the cracks, but the park officials want to make the classics equipped for a wider range of climbers.

Sylvia on the crux pitch that was said to be extreamly polished. It was very polished but not as bad as I had expected.

Sylvia on one of the last pitches.

Sylvia topping out.

Us on top of Anica.

The shadow of the Anica peak.

Fredrik took this photo of me on the last climb we did.

It's 'Celjski stup', a 5a that was tricky for the grade.

Sylvia climbing and Fredrik on the ground.

Sylvia leading the second pitch.

And that was that.

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