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Multipitch climbing in Costa Blanca

Last year Per mentioned about going somewhere south during the winter to do some longer tradclimbing routes. I'm always up for climbing trips
so it did not take very long for me to decide. So in February we went to the Costa Blanca area in Spain in search for some sun and longer trad routes,
and we got plenty of both. The highlight was doing the Espolon Cenatral (direct variation) on Puig Campana, to date the best route I've climbed.


On our first day we went to Orihuela. This is Per on the first pitch of Momiot Ilevanti, grade 5.

Per coming on on pitch 2.

The next route we did was El Diedro, grade 5. Nice route.

Per coming up on pitch 2.

Day two at Leyva. The second pitch of Carillo Cantabella, 5+.

At the top of the route.

I combined the two last pitches because I missed the belay...

so we did it in five pitches.

Two happy climbers.

Day three at Puig Campana. Espolon Central follows the ridge in the middle. We did the direct start variation in 12 pitches.

We were really fast on this route. We passed two teams and climbed the route in 5 hours and 20 minutes. In the guide book it says fast teams do it in 6 :)

Per on one of the upper pitches. You can't see it on the photo but this pitch was very airy with a drop just to Per's left.

The clouds rolled in when we topped out so the descent was foggy.

Climbing was the easy part. Coming down from the mountain was hard work.

This turned out to be the best route I've climbed to date. 12 pitches of steep and airy climbing, but never really hard or scary.

After a rest day we headed to Penon de ifach to do Diedro UBSA. We started on the wrong route though. Well, it made a nice photo but we had to back off.

Here we go... This is Diedro UBSA, 5+. It follows the crack system up the middle of the photo, then up to the cave, a short rapell, a traverse to the left and then up a corner.

Per at the top of the second pitch.

Nice view.

Me coming up after Per on the second pitch.

Per seconding the third pitch.

Per on the fourth pitch.

The only shady spot of the whole climb.

Per up at the cave.

A little trouble with route finding. We were supposed to rapell here, so Per had to down climb this section with no protection.

After the rapell.

The traverse, then up.

One of the nicest pitches of the route.

Me seconding the traverse.

Per seconding the last pitch.

Penon de Ifach as a popular place for the birds too.

Nerves of steel... I could not stand there without a rope.

Per enjoying the view.

The town of Calpe.

A tunnel on the way down.

Last day of climbing. Back at Puig Campana, this time on Diedros Magicos.

I thought the first two pitches were rather hard for grade (5).

No bolts except at belays. I placed a lot of gear.

This pitch was grade 5+ but much easier than the two first grade 5 pitches.

After this pitch we climbed off route and rapelled back down.

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