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Multipitch climbing in the Austrian Alps

At the end of summer 2008 Patrik had the idea of doing some longer multipitch climbing and came up with the suggestion to go to Austria.
Well I'm not hard to persuade! Said and done, Patrik booked the flights and in September we were on our way. Our first stop was Pfaffenstein
where we did one route, then we moved on to Dachstein, not really knowing what to expect. Once we got there we realised that we did not have
to move on. All our climbing needs would be satisfied here. We stayed at a hotel run by an older alpinist that recomended a route for us on the
first day. It was a nice one but we soon realised why he chose it. We could feel his eyes on our backs, and once down he confirmed it by giving
us comments on what we did good and what not from looking at us through a telescope :) It was a nice route though, but hard with route finding.


Welcome to Austria... On our way to Pfaffenstein.

Patrik at the start of 'Südwandplatten' 4+, Pfaffenstein.

Patrik comming up on pitch two.

Patrik on the third pitch.

Me coming up to the belay on top of the fourth pitch.

Patrik on pitch five. I forgot to take the camera so I took this with my phone.

This was the best pitch of the entire route. Again I forgot to take the camera :(

Patrik seconding the best pitch of 'Südwandplatten'.

Not a bad photo for a phone... But still wish I had the camera.

Me at the top.

'Südwandplatten' goes slightly to the right of the church roof. It was a pretty tough hike to get to the start of the route.

Low clowds rolling over.

Patrik and the rental car. On our way to Dachstein.

Here we are... Dachstein. Once we saw this we knew we did not have to move on before going home.

Nice view from our room at Dachstein.

'Südwand (Steiner/Goedel)' 6-. Our first route at Dachstein.

Patrik coming up on pitch three.

Close to the top, but I had taken a wrong turn so we had to down climb. The clouds started to roll in.

At the top after reversing and taking the right way.

Patrik at the top of Niederer Türlspitz.

Me too.

The cable car that goes to Hunerkogel.

This ridge that we had to pass might not look so scary, but the steepness continued for a few hundred meters or so down on each side... And it hailed down hard on us while we crossed it. Then the thunder and lightning started.

Patrik on his way to the next scary ridge. We considered bringing out a rope but the lightning and thunder was getting closer... We had to get off this ridge.

No more photos until we were down. Once we got passed the second scary ridge we found a bolt to rappel a steep and loose section. Then the sky opened up and the rain as well as rocks poored down. No one was hit by the rocks but it was close! Of course it stopped raining once we were on safe ground...

Nice view on our way down.

The hotel.

A Dachstein local. "If I keep really really still, they won't see me".

The route we just did, 'Südwand (Steiner/Goedel)' 6-, 12 picthes. It starts slighty to the right of the center of the photo behind the grassy peak and follows the left leaning crack system for about five pitches, then heads of to the right.

On our way to a new route in the morning mist.

Here comes to sun to warm us up.

Yep, we are in the alps.

Nice view above the clowds.

Patrik on the second pitch of 'SO Verschneidung' 5-, 4 pitches.

Patrik coming up to the top of pitch three.

Patrik on pitch four.

This was the routes best pitch.

Leaning back, taking a break.

The only route we had to rappel all the way down from.

This is the route we just did, 'SO Verschneidung'. It starts in the left most crack system that splits and then heads right. Pitch three and four were fantastic.

Heading down.

Nice view... The hotel is in the shade.

Next route... Patrik on pitch three of 'Tour für heisse Tage' 5-, 9 pitches to the top.

Patrik coming up on pitch four. We were in the shade and above a glacier. It was a little chilly.

Me coming up to the top of pitch five.

Patrik belaying me on pitch six.

This guy has a scary job. He's checking the cable that is being made.

Patrik at the top of pitch eight.

Patrik on top.

A top out shot of me too.

Via ferrata to get down.

Patrik showing off his skills.

The route we did, 'Tour für heisse Tage' 5-. It starts in the left leaning ramp just above the spot were the snow drops out of the left side of the photo. It follows the ramp for 30 meters and then goes up.

On our final day it was too windy for the intended route so we decided to go sports climbing.

This is a fantastic grade 6 route.

Strangly bolted though... There are bolts all over the place of different typs, age and quality.

Patrik on a nice arête.

Being lazy out of the sun. Somebody had dragged a fat bouldering mat up there for our comfort.

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